Devon Dispatches

Brilliant Bugle

2012-02-17T22:42:00.013Z

Might Spring be on the way? (I'm only asking - tentatively). As we walked along the coastpath the sun kissed our faces and we were actually quite hot by the time we arrived at Bugle Hole. It was a gift of a day for swimming there; there was hardly any wind so the water was calm and gleaming. At high tide there is a natural chain of swimming pools linked by snaking channels and gullies, which you can meander around and explore; there are caves too.

Sensational swimming

2012-02-05T19:30:00.015Z

At Blackpool Sands, when the sea is calm, it drops away and into the oblivion of the horizon with an infinitesimal beauty. We arrived on a very cold, still, day. As we crunched down the beach and into the water, the shingle echoed and swirled. There is a big shelf and in we plunged, suddenly aware of the depth. We swam towards the southern side of the beach, past a hidden cove, and along a grey, smooth flank of rock. Looking up we could see grand houses at the top of the cliff, and a path leading down, which seemed to end in the rocks above us. We climbed up to have a look and found two hidden tidal pools. There was a tiny rectangular one, which looked like a paddling pool, and a much bigger one, where most of the wall had fallen away. It had metal bars in the wall, including one at the top, where lots of old rope had become entangled. In its heyday it must have been spectacular; you could sit in it high above the sea and look all the way down the coast to Start Point. Thanks to Geoffrey Harcombe for the rock-exploring pictures.

The battle of Berry Head

2012-01-30T14:07:00.012Z

Berry Head is tremendous natural look-out. There are the remains of a Napoleonic fort there. The cliffs around are craggy and really quite high, as we found when we tried to get down and swim in the tempting petrol-blue sea below. There were vertiginous drops, and in the end we walked down past the old quarry to where people fish. We changed and climbed down a much smaller drop, plunging into the gently swelling water. Swimming along we spotted a cave which, it turned out, was actually an archway. There were many fissures in the rocks and the noise of the sea was very strange indeed as it echoed through them; it sounded as though it was growling. Perhaps there really are sea monsters who make their homes in hidden caverns.

(Nearly) 99 red balloons

2012-01-30T13:52:00.009Z

In honour of a trio of birthdays - Kari, Steph and Clare - a madcap plan was hatched to swim around Burgh Island in truly celebratory style, each swimmer attached to a red balloon. As we arrived we could see an excited group below the Pilchard Inn, some already clutching balloons, while Jonathan manhandled a helium cylinder, filling the rest. The sea was flat calm and gorgeous, with the sun rippling across it. There must have been about twenty of us who swam round; it was sheer pleasure all the way. Some of the highlights; being able to swim in and out of the maze of gullies at the back of the island; marvelling at the pink and purple rocks and seaweed below us; the silhouettes of the cormorants and gulls; the incredible visibility of the water; and the sky turning pink as we swam.

Hangover cure at Hope

2012-01-23T13:12:00.011Z

Because I'm always after still waters for swimming and exploring, I sometimes forget what fun a few big waves can be. Today we had a spectacular walk at Bolt Tail, a massive lump of a headland which juts out into the sea with enormous views all down the coast. On the way back I stopped for a swim at Hope Cove, where the surf was rocking. Walking into the sea I was pushed and pulled by the force of the water, before being wiped out by a particularly big wave. I then started to go head-first into each roller. What a blast! I spent quite some time playing like this before getting my bodyboard and doing a bit of surfing.

Rolling in the deep

2012-01-15T09:14:00.008Z

Meldon Quarry is a grand statement of a place. A viaduct floats above you, and great hunks of rock are everywhere. The quarry lake is tucked away, and there were many intakes of breath when we first saw the water, a green expanse through a network of branches. The water was cold; seven degrees to be precise; hardly a surprise at this time of year...but being in it deliciously enforced the feeling of winter. We swam over to a beautiful, angular cliff which hangs precariously over the water. We felt very small staring up at its edgy presence. Apparently the kids like to jump off it in the summer - not quite sure from where. All I could manage was a very tame lurch from a rock I managed to find protruding at the bottom.

Squirts, sponges and stuff

2012-01-09T20:34:00.001Z

Having been stuck in the grime of London all weekend, it seemed appropriate to swim at London Bridge - in Torquay. This amazing arch is always alluring, but today turned out to be particularly extraordinary. We swam at low water, and it was a very low tide indeed because we're on Spring tides at the moment. There is a cave by the arch, which today was revealed from underneath the arch itself; before, when I've gone at high water, you can only get to the cave around the lump of rock at the back. As we swam in we could see two sources of light: two entrances, with beautiful clear turquoise water lapping between. I then noticed bright white squashy things everywhere; they looked a bit like teeth, or as Anna more poetically put it, like candle wax dripping from the cave walls. Under the water though, they opened out like anenomes. I have now - thanks to a brilliant Torbay dive site - discovered they are called dead men's fingers. We also saw some rather necrotic looking sea sponges - brown masses stuck on the rock faces, occasionally spitting water at us. All this magical marine wildlife is, I think, normally hidden from swimmers, as we don't go down deep enough. Today, thanks to the spring tides, we were allowed a privileged look into their secret world. Watch the video....

Happy at Hope

2012-01-02T14:42:00.013Z

It's the third year we've done a New Year's swim at Hope Cove, and we see no reason to change what is now a tradition. Who can argue with a glorious 'expedition' of a swim, between Outer and Inner Hope (two adjoining bays), Morris Men, and a cosy pub with people singing sea shanties (oh and copious amounts of warming mulled wine). The sea was rough, and as we swam past the Shippen - a bulging rocky outcrop between the two beaches - I thought of the many ships that have been wrecked there in the past...including one of the Spanish Armada in 1588. Afterwards, we crowded into the pub to shelter from the driving rain. What a way to welcome in the New Year - in the sea, with friends.

Bbbbbouncy Burgh

2011-12-25T17:51:00.011Z

Christmas Eve. A Santa swim at Burgh Island. Ssswwwwell - and how. We set off, a motley crew of Santa-clad swimmers, into the surf that was roaring to the west of the island. A strong south westerly wind pushed into our bodies and faces, rolling huge walls of water at us. Every so often I got a massive mouthful and I can still taste the salt as I write. As we approached the first corner, and were bumped and bounced about in the most undignified manner, it was time to decide whether to push on or turn back. I was in two minds, given the roughness of the sea, but got caught up in the moment and decided to keep going. At the back of the island I had a moment of fear, as I got separated from the others, and started to feel tired. It just felt as though I wasn't going anywhere. I kept going and eventually pushed through it. Yet, even at that moment, I was also glorying in the sheer solitude in the water out there, in the beauty of the wild rocks and sea, and in that sense of being truly alone in the elements. The final part of the swim was much easier, as the wind was in our favour, and we got regular welcome pushes from the big waves - in the right direction this time. On the way back we stopped for a dip in the Mermaid Pool. What perfect peace, an infinity pool after after the angry sea.

Moonlight and mince pies

2011-12-11T09:21:00.016Z

As full moon night approached I scanned the skies anxiously, hoping for a clear night. Dartmoor under a full moon is like another planet. Unfortunately there was a quilt of clouds, so we couldn't see the moon in all its glory, but the Moor was lit up by soft ambient light. I would like to say we slipped into the water in silence, appreciating the still beauty of the night but the reality was a series of blood curdling screams as the various swimmers in the party came into contact with the lake. Once in though, we calmed down. Moving through the oily blackness, the sound of every ripple was magnified; when you lose all colour, the noise around you comes to the fore. With everything in shades of monochrome, it was like being in a black and white film.

To the bridge

2011-12-04T11:33:00.010Z

Having a destination when you're swimming makes all the difference; the swim becomes an adventure. You can't get more dramatic than London Bridge in Torquay. A natural arch, it just beckons you like a wicked mermaid. We swam through petrol blue sea, occasionally diving down and looking at the pink and white rocks below. What a sense of majestic arrival when we reached the arch. And then, around the corner from there, past gorgeous barnacle-encrusted rocks, dotted with tiny pearly-white winkles, we found the most magical cave. As the swell pushed in and out, we rocked giddily up and down, excited and a little hysterical, inside the womb-like space. Thanks to Jonathan and Lynne for filming it; you can see a video here.

Off the rocks

2011-11-21T11:03:00.008Z

In the summer we'd swum off the rocks at Kelly's Cove near Kingswear; it was like being in Greece. Perched on a rocky promontary, surrounded by flat turquoise sea, we plunged into beautifully clear water and dived through exciting underwater channels. (previous entry here) Returning in November it still, amazingly, felt like summer; the sun was out and sparkled on the sea. It was a different matter getting in though, as the swell was pushing vigorously against the rocks, foaming angrily. I felt a bit worried about having brought everyone to swim, as it was rather daunting. Nevertheless, protected by boots and gloves and in some cases wetsuits, we bravely got in. We went in one by one, sitting on the rocks and then pushing out with the swell. Once in, it felt wonderful. The sea was warm, and we were rocked up and down by the swell, bobbing around like corks. Despite the lively sea the visibility was good; I dove down and through a veil of blue I could see white rock below, and then further along, white sand. Delicious.

Outwitting the winds

2011-11-14T21:15:00.010Z

There were Easterly winds today which scotched my plan to swim in Tor Bay. Looking at the map to find somewhere sheltered I hit upon Cellars Beach at the mouth of the Yealm at Noss Mayo. We walked up from the village in a circular direction around the headland, along Lord Revelstoke's Drive. This, as you might guess, was created by the local lord so he could drive his carriage around the coast and enjoy the grandiose views without the bother of walking. The drive follows the massive bulge of the headland, overlooking the uncompromising triangularity of the Mew Stone, and then turns into a path along the estuary where you find the beach. The water was calm, in contrast to the exposed coast around the corner, where huge waves were crashing. Although it didn't exactly feel warm, especially when we first got in, we soon got used to it, relishing the freshness. It is still surprisingly mild. We swam out towards the red buoys (just visible in the left of the picture) and then pottered along the rocky edges of the river mouth.

Spot the swimmer

2011-11-07T14:29:00.008Z

On the top of Dartmoor we could see for miles; down to Plymouth Sound and over to Hay Tor. As we walked down from South Hessary Tor, we approached Crazy Well Pool from above. It was magnificent, eerie and still. At 10.2 degrees it was most certainly fresh, but I managed to swim across and back. A great way of restoring your factory settings...

Boat to boat

2011-11-06T17:30:00.011Z

The Yealm on a sunny day feels like the Mediterranean. Boats of all kinds, from gin palaces to painted rowing boats, bob in the water, swinging around with the tide and the wind. We swam from the mouth of the estuary up river with the incoming tide. The sun shone and it was generally glorious to be in the water on a November day. As we approached the boats we swam 'dot to dot', from one to the next, enjoying the push from the current. We finished at the Ship Inn; their chips come highly recommended.

Pure plunge

2011-10-30T20:45:00.011Z

We were at the Arundell Arms at Lifton for a work thing and after a day spent sitting around a table, writing on a flipchart and generally having to behave, all I wanted was to jump in some water. Luckily there just happened to be the perfect lake nearby, owned by the hotel. They use it to give fishing lessons. It's an old quarry and is serenely beautiful. I'd been chatting to the owner in the bar, and asked if we could have a swim. No problem, he said. How refreshing, no sharp intakes of breath and concern about health and safety issues. So at the close of play Kirk, Emma and I headed for the lake and dived in. Bliss. Thank you to Michael Marker for the great shot, and to the Arundell Arms for the swim.

Spin cycle

2011-10-24T12:55:00.009+01:00

The wind was wuthering as we set off for Bugle Hole; the sea was a churning mass but the lagoon was relatively calm. Even so, getting in was slightly hairy as the water whooshed up and pulled back constantly, like a mad see saw. At low tide this pool is beach, it was strange to see it transformed into a perfect swimming pool. Seeking for further amusement we set off down the channel that leads out to the sea; it was a rock and roll rollercoaster, like being in a washing machine, with water foaming everywhere. The most exhilarating swim for months.

Alone in the sea

2011-10-16T10:24:00.011+01:00

Sometimes you just want emptiness. At Anstey's Cove the sea was flat and green and huge. I got in and swam over to the pinnacles of Long Quarry Point. I felt nothing except the resistance of the water. The feeling of oblivion out there was total. I like these Greta Garbo moments.

Goodbye summer

2011-10-11T10:45:00.012+01:00

It was the last day of the Indian summer and I walked to Sharrah Pool through dappled woods that glowed in their greenness. I was alone and didn't see anyone. As I approached the pool I noticed holly berries, already red and fat. There is something about Sharrah that stills your soul. You are enclosed by the trees but float under an expansively open sky. The water was its usual self; soft and kind in the wide pool and boiling and furious under the cascade.

Falling leaves

2011-10-03T16:38:00.006+01:00

Every time I swim in the Dart at the moment the water is filled with gently falling leaves, languidly drifting down to the bottom, catching the sunlight as they go. They sparkle in metallic hues as they fall. It is Autumn in slow motion.

Bumpy Burgh

2011-09-26T11:38:00.013+01:00

To Burgh Island for my annual birthday circumnavigation. This year it was a very bouncy ride. Big swell and great waves foaming over all the rocks on the way round; gloriously exhilarating. I used my new fins and they really helped. We went clockwise, and as we passed through Death Valley (a sort of mini Grand Canyon) the water calmed and flattened, and we got our breath back. While there we saw a pair of baby oyster catchers hopping about high on a ledge. On the last leg, around the western side of the island, we were helped in by the southerly wind and I started to see fish - a large wrasse, and groups of sand smelt flashing around. Afterwards we drank Champagne on the beach; what a perfect day.

Avoiding algae

2011-09-26T11:22:00.010+01:00

After an attempt to swim in a lake had to be abandoned because of the presence of toxic blue-green algae, we headed for the River Bovey nearby. We found a beautiful pool, but it was rather shallow. As well as the usual trout, minnows etc, there were masses of balls in the bottom of the pool. We soon discovered why. It was like Piccadilly Circus. Dog walkers passing every few minutes, and then, to cap it all a group of twenty eight Shetland Sheepdogs - or Shelties - arrived. It turned out it was one of the quarterly get-togethers of the Sheltie Owners' Club.

Beautiful Beesands

2011-09-19T15:38:00.022+01:00

When the sea is raging off the South coast of the South Hams, it's often calmer on the eastern side, between Dartmouth and Start Point, and so it proved today. At Beesands, the vast flat ocean spread out as far as the eye could see. The visibility was amazing; as we swam from the shore the shingle dropped away and it felt like being in space. We dived down to the pebbly seabed, before heading up again to the surface. I was testing some glass goggles from Cressi, courtesy of Simply Swim. They felt comfortable on the face, and everything looked crisp and clear; even better they didn't steam up. Apparently because they are made of tempered glass they are less likely to get scratched. Then I tried out some fins from Aquasphere - they were brilliant. They are made of flexible foam and so gently amplify your movement, helping you realise what you're actually doing, and so learn how to improve your stroke. Thanks to the fins I was able to keep up with my friend and swimming guru Kari (which I normally can't), and we swam together down the coastline towards Hallsands. On our return we were against the current, and again, the fins really helped. Thanks to Simply Swim for the gear.

The Palmer Dart

2011-09-18T10:57:00.020+01:00

It was the second 'Palmer Dart' - a four mile swim between Totnes and Stoke Gabriel organised by the lovely Olivia and Stuart Palmer. We swam on the outgoing tide; as we set off, on cue, the sun came out, glittering and rippling on the water. I was wearing a wetsuit, after a summer swimming without one, and found it difficult to get into a rhythm; eventually I got into my stride. Occasionally I turned on my back and sculled along, looking up at the blue overhead, with buzzards circling and the occasional skein of geese flying past. About two thirds in the tiredness really hit, but after a couple of pitstops for food and water I was fine. What a great feeling arriving into Stoke Gabriel, exhausted but happy (and last). We revived ourselves with bacon butties at the River Shack, meeting lots of lovely people from the South London swimming club who'd come down from the event...the party carried on in the evening at the village hall, with fish and chips and boogying. Now that's what I call a perfect day.

Sunset at Sharpham

2011-09-18T10:48:00.009+01:00

The Sharpham estate lies between Totnes and Dartmouth on the banks of the glorious Dart. We met for an early evening swim round a big bulging bend in the river, upstream with the tide from South Quay to North Quay. The river here is magnificent and stately. As we swam with a gentle current pushing us, the sun gradually set, and at the end we were swimming towards a golden path reflected on the water.

The hidden horse's head

2011-09-05T08:28:00.011+01:00

Prawle Point is the most southerly bit of Devon...and scene of many a shipwreck. I had heard that it has an arch shaped like a horse's head but had never managed to see this natural phenomenon from the shore. We got into the sea at Western Cove, just to the East of the point. There is a whole series of little coves there, like mini swimming pools with steep rocks either side: gorgeous, like being in Greece. As we swam out it got choppier and choppier, but looking towards the Point we still couldn't see the horse's head. Out a bit further, and there was a shout from Judy. "There it is!" A stark silhouette of horses's head, even down to the ears, the sun shining behind it. Ellie and Kate, strong swimmers, managed to swim up to it, but had to climb out rather than swimming back, because of the current. HEALTH WARNING: strong currents around Prawle Point. If you don't want the bother of swimming out to look at the head, you can see a picture here.

A trip to Tinside

2011-08-31T13:34:00.009+01:00

I can't believe I've lived in Devon all this time and never visited Tinside Lido in Plymouth. It is spectacular in its Deco elegance and its sheer scale. On a rocky outcrop projecting into the Sound, it feels like being on an ocean liner. It's a glorious place to swim and a wonderful place to spend the afternoon. With its sunbathing terraces, there is something for everyone. And this year, entry is free. (it's probably the first and last year it will be free). All along the foreshore near the Lido are the remains of concrete steps and smaller tidal pools; the fact that most of them have gone to rack and ruin, and some have been blocked off by the council, is very sad.

Laps through the Lakes

2011-08-30T10:12:00.010+01:00

Ok, it's not Devon, but I just have to share the joys of my recent trip to the Lake District. Number one highlight: Tongue Pot near the Roman Castle of Hardknott, and also various pools around it. Picture the scene: crystal clear waters over pale pebbles, framed by waterfalls; an enchanted atmosphere, it felt as though we were bathing in a secret fairy place. The visibility underwater was amazing. (I know I'm waxing rather lyrical but it really was very romantic). A total contrast was Small Water - which Wainwright says is Lakeland's most beautiful tarn - in the gloom and rain. Here I felt a glorious isolation in murky depths. And finally Coniston - serene and silky. We swam off a stark wooden jetty and picnicked on a promontory overlooking Wildcat Island. Needless to say I am now re-reading Swallows and Amazons and am loving every word.

Brilliant Burgh

2011-08-28T11:17:00.010+01:00

The annual Burgh Island Race is totally wonderful, organised by the hotel simply for the fun of it. They generously lay everything on for free for the participants, including a scrumptious barbeque afterwards. This year we had a lovely sunny evening, although there was a strong wind and swell. The chatelaine of the hotel, Deborah, oversaw the start of the race from the sea tractor (as you do), and the first part of the swim was tough going. We had to put our heads down and plough into the head wind and chop. Once we'd got round the back of the island though, the wind was a help, not a hindrance. Huge thanks to the Burgh Island Hotel for such a fabulous event.

Swimming in the mire

2011-08-13T21:47:00.015+01:00

A mire may not be all it seems, particularly on Dartmoor. We tramped through the damp and drizzle, heading towards the blue spot - Leftlake Mire - that we'd identified on the map. Far from being an unpleasant sticky bog, it was beautiful. A vast pool, rather dark and desolate and cold. We swam across the great expanse, and looked back to see an arch silhouetted against the sky; quarrying used to go on here. We then attempted a bit of, er, synchronised swimming; an experience bizarrely enhanced by the appearance of our limbs in the water; it looked as though we'd all been a bit overenthusiastic with the fake tan.

Swimming the ruins

2011-08-01T14:39:00.010+01:00

Hallsands is a ruined village right down near Start Point; it was swept away after shingle was dredged along the coast nearby to build the dockyard in Plymouth. All that remains is the shells of the buildings. It isn't accessible by foot, so we swam there. It was beautiful. The sea was clear and calm; we swam along from North Hallsands and soon the ruins were looming above us, on a great platform of rock. It must have been a tough old life living there and it was a moving experience looking up at the buildings. There is some wonderful old film of the last inhabitants by British Pathe which you can see online here.

Dartmoor delights

2011-07-29T16:17:00.010+01:00

We set off along the Dart on high mushroom alert, after a reliable source tipped me off that Chanterelles were in evidence. Well indeed they were. This, on top of an unexpected Penny Bun find a few weeks ago, way earlier than normal, leads me to hope we might have a good fungi season. Anyway, Chanterelles safely gathered, we made our way to one of the most charming swimming spots on the Dart. There's a huge cliff down which someone has helpfully erected a metal ladder...you climb down to a massive rock platform, ideal for jumping off. After our long sweaty walk, this was the perfect thing to do.

Fun at Froward

2011-07-28T12:10:00.012+01:00

We set off to explore a section of the coastpath we'd never visited before, between Kingswear and Brixham. It was an idyllic English summer's day; at the top of the headland the corn swayed like water as we walked through the fields. We got to the edge near Froward Point and found the most stunning craggy cliffs with turquoise water below. The sea was calm and we leapt in off the rocks. The water was so clear, I swear I could see plankton...we definitely saw crabs and a starfish below. There were channels and even intriguing rocky islands to explore, with masses of noisy seabirds including cormorants, shags and terns.

Swimming to the pub

2011-07-17T18:06:00.008+01:00

...is a great idea. I started off at Cellars Beach at the mouth of the Yealm estuary, and swam up river with the tide. It was a fairly rough old day with a strong wind and a notable absence of sun, but it was a glorious and exhilarating experience nevetheless. A changeable journey from the rocky, choppy grey sea at the start, to the deep green yacht-packed river as I got further up. As I swam up the creek towards the pub, it got shallower and shallower, and the mud was deep, thick and silky. I tried to walk but quickly started to sink. The only thing was to pull myself out over the mud on my stomach, like some primeval creature evolving milllions of years ago from the murky depths. I made sure to do this round the corner from the Ship Inn, so as to emerge with a smidgeon of dignity.

Cracking Crab Shack

2011-07-15T17:11:00.006+01:00

You know how when you're travelling along the French coast, little restaurants selling delicious crustacea are two a penny? Yet here, in our island nation, it's nigh impossible to find a place that serves up simply done seafood. Well today I found such a place. Rob, a fisherman in Teignmouth, had told me last winter about his plan to start a restaurant on the town's back beach. It opened at Easter and today we went to check it out. Bingo! I am absolutely raving about this place! We had oysters, the sweetest crab, as well as prawns and wickedly delicious fries on the side. You can also have great seafood platters. Everything was presented beautifully and the service was charming. We sat outside, watching the gulls and cormorants as well as all manner of passing craft. It's called the Crab Shack but sadly I can't provide a link as they don't have a website yet.

Swimming with seals (part 2)

2011-07-10T17:01:00.009+01:00

Swimming with a seal sounds all very lovely but in reality it isn't. ..I think it's something to do with the sheer size of it and the fact it can swim up under you and take you by surprise. I was in Brixham, swimming between Fishcombe and Churston Coves. It is beautiful there. Crystal clear water, and I swam over the most ethereal eel grass beds, which are home to sea horses (but none were visible). I was happily absorbed in my watery world, watching fishes etc, when I noticed a dog in the water. I then did a classic Tom and Jerry style double take when I realised it was a seal...and made a beeline for the nearest rocks. I cowered there pathetically for a while before realising I would have to be brave otherwise I'd spend the rest of the day there. I made my way back, clinging to the shore all the way. Thanks to the girls in the lovely Cove Cafe at Fishcombe for looking after my stuff.

The Spitchwick Slither

2011-07-05T13:00:00.004+01:00

We have a new swim to delight you: the Spitchwick Slither. You slide in at the top of the Deeper Marsh end of the river Dart, where there is a grand pool lined with sloping slabs of grey and black rock. Then it's down over the first set of rapids, slithering and sliding over the boulders and getting sucked through the gaps in between them. Wetsuit, gloves, boots, and most importantly, goggles are essential. The latter to spot the rocks looming up ahead. You then reach Higher Corner Pool - a slow, deep pause where you get pulled gently by the current. It's then alternate rapids and pools down to Lower Corner Pool where you emerged, invigorated and amused by the experience that is the Spitchwick Slither.

Ladies of the lake

2011-06-28T20:51:00.007+01:00

Sometimes you're paused in a delicious place and time and you don't want it to end. Some friends have created a truly beautiful lake; an oasis that is a testament to their creativity and hard work. As we slipped in, on a thundery and threatening day, the water enveloped us in its silky softness. We swam around surrounded by clouds of wild flowers. Then it was time for some sychronised diving off the little jetty.

Swimming the stacks

2011-06-27T13:55:00.017+01:00

Ladram Bay is home to a procession of stark sandstone stacks, with names ranging from the sublime to the ridiculous. Chocolate Finger, Ladram Lady, the Tower of Babel, Bonnetti Tower, the Razor and Lost World. We started our swim amongst the pebbles and people of Ladram Bay itself...but a short distance around the corner and we were in pure desert nature. Burning red cliffs and bright blue sea, and the stacks dotted wherever we looked. Some were peppered with holes and tunnels, most had caves forming at their foundations, because of the constant whirl of the sea. It was like swimming through the Grand Canyon.

Through the keyhole

2011-06-20T18:19:00.008+01:00

It was a very low tide at Thurlestone. So much so that I got to the Rock by clambering across the reef, as well as swimming. I spent ages wallowing around in the various rock pools, marvelling at the myriad seaweeds in all shades of green, brown and pink. I saw a small wrasse and many shoals of fry as well as the odd prawn. There is an enormous pool underneath the Rock itself lined with pebbles in a huge range of colours. I went under the arch and round the outside; it's a spectacularly grand place.

Swimming in the rain

2011-06-19T12:13:00.007+01:00

As I swam across the Secret Lake small raindrops bounced on the surface, like delicate pin pricks. The water was dark and peaty, and colder than usual. It took my eyes a while to get used to the underwater blackness, but eventually I started to make out the silty bottom and clumps of weeds, occasionally punctuated with a large granite boulder. This place is an oasis of silky calm.

Secret tunnel

2011-06-13T11:44:00.014+01:00

The amazing thing about the tide is it creates swimming places which appear and disappear almost by magic. In Cornwall, with friends, we swam in the bluest, clearest channel of water; an hour or two earlier or later and it wouldn't have been there. When you catch the right time, there is a great sense of the moment. As we waded into the beautiful lagoon the water got clearer and bluer, and the great walls of cliff loomed up either side. We dived and swam to our hearts' content. Sheer heaven. Watch the movie here!

Swimming with sea trout - and a nudist

2011-05-24T09:15:00.010+01:00

Sharrah Pool, between Dartmeet and Newbridge, must be the most spectacular of the Dart pools. It is fed by a cascade, from where the water thunders through a granite channel and out into a fifty metre long pool. There are stark green and white striations on the bottom as well as many other beautiful underground rock formations. I saw a shoal of at least thirty large sea trout darting around excitably like grey ghosts underneath me; the sheer number and size of them was unnerving. An older couple then appeared on the other bank and I gave them a wave. The next thing I knew, he was starkers and leaping in. Fair enough, we've all done it. Next thing, he's out and standing on a rock, master of all he surveys, where he stands for about ten minutes. Please....just put it away! (luckily my son obviously has a budding career as a paparrazo and managed to get this shot of him - see if you can spot him!!)

Swim before school

2011-05-10T10:12:00.015+01:00

I had an hour or two before school pickup and went with Ellie to explore the river Teign, where it comes off the Moor and proceeds, rather unpromisingly, through the clay pits towards Newton Abbot and out to sea. We parked at Chudleigh Knighton and walked under the noisy A38 bridge, following the river south. We were greeted with a most pleasant and bucoloic scene. Meadows and river, with swimmable bits and beaches and even some rope swings along the way.

Soaraway Soar

2011-05-08T14:29:00.013+01:00

For sheer drama you cannot beat Soar Mill Cove. It is surrounded by craggy, jagged cliffs and at low tide you can explore among the rocks and caves, one of which goes back for ages and opens out into an eerie cavern. There are two massive rocks on the beach called the Priest and Clerk which are fun to climb on, and to swim around at high tide. Just off the beach is the Ham Stone - in the distance in the picture. We had wanted to swim to it but the sea was too rough. Still, it was total joy to be in the water, diving under the breaking waves and swimming through the swell. We also found some little pools which were fun to wallow in.

Canal capers

2011-05-02T09:29:00.012+01:00

The idea of canal swimming has always seemed most unattractive, but today all my perceptions were blown out of the water (as it were). We cycled to the Turf pub on the Exe estuary, which sits on a spur of land that juts out into the water and the wideness of the river with all its changeability. I had hoped to swim there but the tide was wrong and we were surrounded by mud flats. We cycled back along the canal path, and got to Topsham Lock, where the water looked beautifully green and fresh. Without demur, in we got, and it was the most gloriously lovely experience. The canal is fed by the River Exe, and the water was clean and clear and very deep in the middle. A couple of guys were fishing nearby, they told us, for 'big pike with teeth'. The whole thing brought to mind that line in Ducks' Ditty in Wind in the Willows by Kenneth Grahame. "Slushy green undergrowth, where the roach swim/Here we keep our larder, cool and full and dim".

Warm West Dart

2011-04-24T19:10:00.019+01:00

My brother James got in the water first and immediately announced it was warmer than the sea had been the day before (which had been pretty cold). I didn't believe him. But when I got in I realised he was right. We were in a wide, slow pool on the West Dart, which gets the sun all day. It was pure pleasure swimming upstream, surrounded by minnows and small trout, and observing the outlandish weed, all suffused with sunlight dappling through the water. It was hard to drag ourselves out and back into the normal, land-based world. Sigh....

Grecian paradise - in Devon

2011-04-23T19:24:00.014+01:00

Still, clear turquoise waters.....swimming off sun-baked rocks....gazing out over a hazy sea, where boats gently bob...it felt like a Greek island, but no, it was Devon in the Easter heatwave. This is Cellars Beach, at the mouth of the Yealm. It's a low tide beach, but it's not a problem when the tide is high because there is an enormous rock to sit on. As you do so you gaze out on the Mewstone and Plymouth Sound and the odd naval ship. The water was deceptive - it was very cold. I swam for too long, enthralled by the crystal clear water and the intriguing underwater landscape. When I eventually came out I was chilled to the bone, despite the heat.

Moonlit swimming

2011-04-18T09:17:00.011+01:00

Dartmoor in the moonlight is totally beautiful but also nerve-wrackingly strange. Everything was bathed in a silvery glow, and as I walked towards my swimming spot I could see my shape moving in a moonlit shadow. Suddenly, out of nowhere, there was the sound of thundering hooves. Not wanting a moonlit encounter with the four horsemen of the apocalypse or ineed a herd of spooked Dartmoor ponies I quickly left the area. I drove a bit further and approached from the other side. The moon was high and it was reflected perfectly in the still water: a round shiny disc. I walked in, and ripples slowly moved out, elongating the reflection. I slid in and floated around in the silence. Well, I say silence, but actually there was quite a lot of noise. Owls hooting, the occasional whinny of a pony, and odd rustles and snuffles. The feeling of total isolation - apart from the wildlife around - was overwhelming.

The lure of the river

2011-04-17T18:09:00.011+01:00

Today it felt like summer. Warm and sunny and not a cloud in the sky. We headed for one of our local pools on the Dart, passing violets, wood anenomes, and celandines twinkling away like fairy lights in the ground cover. I was a touch apprehensive as I lowered myself into the river but the water was just wonderful. Yes it was fresh, even, dare I say, a little cold, but I soon got used to it and it was just beautiful to be in that silky and oh so clear water. Walking back I saw a pearl-bordered fritillary butterfly - or possibly the small pearl-bordered fritillary I'm not sure - they feed on the violets.

Return to the wreck

2011-04-10T19:11:00.013+01:00

Kari was keen to come and see the wreck of the Louis Sheid, which I wrote about back in January (see previous entry). We headed for Thurlestone; it wasn't a particularly low tide so the top of the chimney wasn't visible. We found the wreck by swimming along, faces down, just looking; the water was lovely and clear and we swam over a stunning pink reef laced with all manner of seaweed, including some which was tinged fluorescent blue. Eventually we came across what looked to be the remains of a mast on its side, covered with weed and barnacles; we followed it and arrived at the main body of the ship. The picture to the left shows the part of the ship - a chimney or a stempost - which protrudes from the sea on a very low tide. We met a couple of friendly divers who were also there exploring.

Going with the flow

2011-04-09T20:43:00.007+01:00

We floated down the Yealm estuary with the outgoing tide, watching the river bed speeding along below. White cockle shells studded the bottom, brown bladderwrack swayed as we passed, and we swam over nets full of oysters. Bird tracks were still highly visible on the muddy bottom, and there was a magical moment when two silvery grey mullet swam past, giving off an eerie glow. It was a long swim; we were in the water for nearly three hours. The last leg involved swimming up Newton Creek to Noss Mayo, where we discovered a fatal flaw in our plan; we were now pushing against the current. Not a good idea when you're tired and cold. So out we got and walked the rest of the way. A friendly couple took pity on us as they saw us walking past their house, looking a trifle weary. They brought us out teas and coffees to provide the final boost to get back to the pub.

Close encounters of the blubbery kind

2011-04-02T19:05:00.011+01:00

It's great to get up close and personal with wildlife. Or is it?Anna and I were swimming at Hope Cove; all was well, the sun was shining, the seagulls were crying, and then we thought we spotted a seal. Great excitement; could this be the icing on the cake? But whatever it was disappeared, and we carried on swimming, thinking we must have been mistaken. I then felt something touch my leg; seconds later a whiskery face popped up just yards from us, casually spraying water out of its nostrils, and watching us carefully. For a few moments we revelled in the magic of being so close to a wild creature; how privileged we were etc etc. It then sunk back in the most laid-back fashion and disappeared underwater. The mood rapidly changed - where had it gone? Let me tell you, it's not a pleasant feeling being in the water while being encircled by a fat mammal that you can't see. It was swimming around underneath us, occasionally touching/nipping us. You've never seen us head so fast to the nearest cove. Once there, it laid siege, refusing to move from the water just off the beach. We were reduced to scrambling over the rocks to get back to the safety of dry land.

Brilliant Bude

2011-03-21T10:12:00.014Z

We had a bit of a 'works outing' over the Tamar to Bude in Cornwall. There are two tidal pools - a baby one hidden in the rocks, and the more famous one, which is vast and elegant. The little one was apparently created in Victorian times as a men-only swimming place, and is called Tommy's Pit. It has metal numbers fastened to the side of the rock, presumably indicating the depth, and is perfect for doing your lengths; an oasis of calm while the Atlantic roars. We then headed out to the rollers, and did a bit of bodyboarding, before heading back to the top of the beach and plunging into the totally spectacular and majestic tidal pool. It was built in the 1930s and has that deco elegance about it, with its railings and angles. Three swims in one - we love you Bude!

Not so supermoon

2011-03-21T09:56:00.012Z

There was widespread excitement and anticipation about the much-heralded Supermoon this weekend; it would be the biggest and brightest moon for 20 years, an unmissable spectacle etc etc. Well oh dear what a damp squib, with the the clouds not quite literally raining on the moon's parade...but blotting it out and blurring it. We went up onto Dartmoor; there was moonlight but it was very obscure. We swam in our illicit place; but in the end our little moon worshipping ritual turned into a plain old swim in the dark.

Round trip

2011-03-13T09:20:00.006Z

We hadn't really intended to swim around Burgh Island, but that's what we ended up doing. We started off on the western side, where it was calm and the water was unbelievably clear. We kept close in to the island and swam through dramatic channels and gulleys, admiring the swinging seaweed below and the angular rock faces above. At the back it started to get a little choppy, and we were whirled around several times in little eddies. By the time we got to the eastern side, and the last leg, it was much harder going. At one point a group of seagulls kept swooping on us; one landed right by us and floated along with us for a while.

Swimming into spring

2011-03-07T11:23:00.010Z

We walked through glades of silvery, stunted oaks along a tumbling stream to a pool on the West Dart. There's a magnificent set of stepping stones, and we posed, like the Beatles on a famous album cover, before wading in and swimming upstream. The moor stretching up on either side was countless shades of grey and brown with splashes of rust from the bracken. Loveliest of all was the pussy willow coming out in the bushes along the river...like little drops of water hanging on the branches as we swam past.

Wild, windswept Watcombe

2011-02-13T18:28:00.020Z

The red sand and cliffs at Watcombe in Torquay are the remains of a time around 300 million years ago when Devon was very different. It was near the equator, a sweltering desert. The irons in the rock oxidised, creating the red colour which is still so prominent today. This all seems a little far-fetched on a bleak winter's day....but the evidence is there in those red, red cliffs. We swam out of the bay and headed south along the coastline, where we spotted Smuggler's Hole, which is marked on the Ordnance Survey map. A quite dramatic, large cave at the bottom of a wonderfully stark cliff. Unfortunately the sea was too rough to go in and explore it.

Nicey icey NOT

2011-02-07T14:58:00.011Z

Anna and I were hot and tired from our session in the gym, and so thought a refreshing swim in the rain at Huccaby Bridge would be just the ticket. It's an idyllic spot that is always crowded in the summer because the pool is right by the road, with ample room to set up your deck chair reassuringly close to the car. We did our 'special winter thing' which involves leaving the house in swimsuit and dressing gown, running from the car to the swimming spot, launching in for as long as we can bear it, before exiting, wrapping up in the dressing gown again and heading for home and a hot bath. Today the water was truly icy, with my knees particularly sensitive to the cold. We normally manage to put up with the freezing temperatures for long enough to acclimatise, but on this occasion we were both defeated, and it was only a minimal dip. Still, you have to remember that the water is at its coldest at this time of year. Roll on Spring.

Darkest, bleakest Dartmoor

2011-02-07T12:48:00.015Z

Out on Harford Moor, it was murky in the extreme. The light came and went, as did the fog and mist. The wind howled around us constantly, and the rain was horizontal. I had my swimming things with me as I hoped to investigate various bits of blue on the map - all of which turned out to be either bogs or puddles. The one decent bit of water was a pretty little reservoir surrounded by trees with lots of 'keep out' signs. We really had to battle against the elements, and concentrate all the time to stop getting lost. It's a bleak world out there sometimes. A short video conveys a little of what it was like. you can view it here.

A big splash

2011-01-30T17:28:00.012Z

We stumbled on an enchanting pool in a tumbling stream on the edge of Dartmoor. The kind of place, edged with moss and luscious ferns, that dryads and water nymphs should inhabit. We probably frightened them all off because there were a couple of ropes and we had a real giggle swinging, Tarzan like, across the pool before dropping, er, daintily, into the water. Afterwards we had a bracing jacuzzi at the bottom of the waterfall that feeds the pool.

Shipwreck swimming

2011-01-24T10:44:00.020Z

We arrived at Thurlestone to find the lowest tide we had ever seen. The landscape that is usually hidden underwater was revealed in all its secret beauty; it was as though God had pulled the plug out. We could have walked out to Thurlestone Rock; the reef it sits on was completely exposed. We saw some divers, as well as noticing something sticking out of the sea. I realised they were exploring a shipwreck. (in the picture above it is the small blobs in the distance). I swam out to it with my ten year old son, through the most beautifully clear and still water. It felt very strange and slightly creepy as we approached the wreck; there is something eerie about a sunken ship. We explored it, seeing a porthole and various pipework underwater. We couldn't resist climbing on top of it and waving before swimming back. By the time we reached the shore the ship was hidden again. Later I found out it is the wreck of the Louis Sheid. It's a Belgian steamship which ran aground in 1939. There is a sad story behind it. It was travelling through the Channel en route for Antwerp when it stopped to help another ship which had been attacked by German U boats. It then carried on, but the Captain decided to stay inshore, for fear of getting attacked by the U boats himself. However because of the blackout there were no lights along the coast, and the ship ran aground. Luckily everyone was rescued by the Salcombe lifeboat.

Wind and waves

2011-01-18T11:07:00.010Z

Driving rain and howling wind didn't put us off our swim at Wonwell on the Erme estuary. In fact, on a day like that, why not get as wet and wild as possible? There were loads of windsurfers out- I've never seen so many in this little river mouth. We swam up river with the tide; when we turned round to come back we were hit by an assault of rain and waves in our faces...swimming was just too much like hard work so we waded back. Afterwards we had a jolly time getting warm in a friend's hot tub.

Avon winter float

2011-01-08T18:00:00.011Z

The sky was an intense blue and the sun was out. We walked from Bigbury beach up along the Avon to Cockleridge Ham; it was nearly low tide and the river was heading towards the sea. The Ham is a big sandy bulge into the river; it's like being on a desert island. We slid into the river and let ourselves be carried downstream...it was total pleasure just being in the water, lying on our backs looking up at the solid blue sky, with the sun on our faces. Bliss. My ten year old son made a video - watch it here.

Hope at Hope Cove and a seal to boot

2011-01-01T16:52:00.017Z

Hope Cove is one of the prettiest coastal villages in Devon, with its tiny harbour and cute cottages, not to mention the lively pub with its New Year Morris Men. We swam from Outer to Inner Hope - from one beach to the next round a small headland - and on the way found Devon's answer to the Corryvreckan whirlpool. Best of all though was swimming into the harbour where a grey seal was there to greet us. We trod water, not wanting to break the spell. It would pop up and look at us for a while, before dropping its head back in the most uber-casual manner and disappearing into the depths. My friend Gareth did the swim with a video camera strapped to his head. You can see the film here.

Around the rocks

2010-12-12T17:28:00.007Z

My mission to find new beaches on my home turf continues. Today I tramped around near Noss Mayo. Warren Beach snuggles below the cliff path and the grand driveway which Lord Revelstoke built in the 1880s for his carriage rides along the coast. It's just below Warren Cottage, a fairytale house which he built as his lunching spot. It's a steep climb down to the beach and greenfinches serenaded us as we arrived. There are lots of dramatic rocks and networks of channels, all filled with gloriously clear water.

Through the keyhole

2010-12-05T16:34:00.018Z

It was a return visit to Bugle Hole which I am convinced must have been the haunt of smugglers years ago. There are even little ancient steps carved into the rocks down to the cove. The cave is a secret passage, easy to miss even if you're standing right by it. We clambered and then swam our way through it to the sea on the other side, marvelling at the pinks, purples and greens of the rock around us. It was a Narnia-like experience, passing through not a wardrobe but a cave, into another world, the water beyond.

In the black

2010-11-22T13:32:00.014Z

At last I've discovered a use for that Buckfast Tonic Wine that sits at the back of the cupboard (I get given a bottle every time my priest comes to visit). It's ideal for lacing your coffee, the perfect reviving tipple after an illicit moonlit swim. Well, it was supposed to be an illicit moonlit swim, and it was certainly illicit thought it wasn't moonlit as the moon was refusing to play ball and we ended up swimming in the pitch black. We met in our secret rendez vous - a car park in the middle of Dartmoor -clutching our torches and ready to trog off over the moor to plunge into our swimming spot. As we were all clad in our black wetsuits there were several comedy moments as we kept bumping into each other, but when we eventually got into the water it was magical and we clicked into another world altogether. Countless shades of monotone, gently lapping water, a grey smudgy sky, the black silhouettes of trees around us, and an all-enveloping sense of being part of the great silky black mass of water.

Uncharted territory

2010-11-05T17:52:00.006Z

Had a wonderful, solitary time today discovering a new (to me) beach, and swimming in the murk and rain. As I walked down the coastpath I couldn't even see the sea, there was so much mist. It was a bit of a nature ramble too: I saw a woolly bear, a vole running along the rocks just below the shore, and inky black cormorants. I felt I couldn't do the beach justice with my camera, so made a short video instead....

Autumnal ocean

2010-10-30T18:35:00.011+01:00

I love swimming in the sea at this time of year because it's still really quite warm...even though it may look cold and grey. Today I went in at Maidencombe, after building up quite a sweat on the coast path towards Shaldon; the walk is a big dipper of constant up and downs, following the green valleys between the crumbling red cliffs. The swim at the end of the walk was a salty, zingy tonic .

An imPRESSive day

2010-10-29T16:21:00.009+01:00

Take an orchard, a group of friends, a tractor and a press, and you're overflowing with apple juice in no time. It's a relaxed way to be with people, because if you don't feel like chatting there's no shame in excusing yourself and going to find a job to do . And vice versa.

Falling leaves

2010-10-19T14:19:00.011+01:00

Autumn is paradoxical. Although it is rather melancholy, with everything dying, at the same time many fruits and delicious things are being produced. As we walked along an old pipeline in woods above the Dart, there were frequent popping and clicking noises as acorns dropped off the oaks above our heads and bounced onto the granite. The sun came out and shone through the crinkled trees and leaves. I found some wood blewit mushrooms; they really are the most lurid lilac colour.

Bugle Hole

2010-10-10T17:48:00.014+01:00

I am never happier than when exploring new territory, preferably by swimming or paddling around channels, caves and rocks. Some time ago my friend Amanda had told me about a pink cave she'd found at Bugle Hole, near Mothecombe. So off we set, on a whitely sunny day, to try and find it. We located Bugle Hole, a rocky inlet, along with a cave. We didn't think it was the 'right' cave, because she'd described how you could swim through it. But we weren't looking properly, because the cave only revealed its true extent once we'd waded right in, and found it snaking back on itself, through to the other side. We went through and then swam among a little archipelago of shark-fin-like islands. When drying ourselves off in the sun afterwards there was a final bonus: lots of cowrie shells.

Get off my rock

2010-10-05T21:43:00.011+01:00

The sea at Castle Cove in Dartmouth, at the mouth of the estuary, was like a boiling cauldron so we decided to find somewhere calmer to swim, and went to Warfleet Creek. This is a charming cove which leads into the estuary; the water is normally the most beautiful slatey green but today it was a thick brown. Undeterred, we set off and had a glorious time bobbing around as we headed towards the main body of the river. Then, to my left, I saw a rock which I thought would be fun to climb out onto, and maybe have a jump off. (Later I looked it up on the map; I think it's called Halftide Rock). Anyway, I was just standing up on it, and rather enjoying myself, when a man came out of a little pink house, virtually on the water, and told me the rock was his 'garden' and I should get off it. Naturally, being a polite and courteous swimmer, I did....but I did wonder how anyone can 'own' a rock in the estuary which gets covered up by the tide for quite a lot of the time...

Fungi phantasmagoria

2010-10-03T18:10:00.010+01:00

The sheer outlandishness of the fairytale fungi world was in huge evidence today. Everywhere we walked in the woods by the Dart, we saw them, in huge variety and numbers. There was everything from the white hevellas - shown here to the right - like a small troop of magicians lurking in the undergrowth - to the hideous tongue-like beefsteak fungus which horrified my children. We even saw what we believe was a Devil's Bolete - or could it be Boletus Calopus? (shown below) Could someone please advise?

Around the island (again)

2010-09-27T10:40:00.008+01:00

It's becoming a bit of a birthday tradition (mine) to have a beach party and swim around Burgh Island. For the last few years we've had much better weather in September than August, and today was no exception. The conditions were absolutely perfect. Flat calm sea, bright sunshine and the occasional scudding cloud. We had three 'Burgh Virgins' in the group; they were all so chuffed to make it round. We swam at the bottom of the tide, and it was a really low one. So much so that the channel at the back of the island - normally a dramatic watery passageway - had just a dribble at the bottom. We saw armies of cormorants lined up at the back of the island, and, in total contrast, charming little rock pipits which hopped around the rocks right close to us.

Happy hedgehogs

2010-09-27T10:36:00.006+01:00

The hedgehog (mushrooms) have arrived! They are always slightly later than the others, but we found our first proper crop today. They are such lovely mushrooms - rarely have maggots, very meaty, and seem to withstand all weathers, appearing pristine whenever you find them.

We did it!

2010-09-19T19:16:00.011+01:00

Well after about six months of planning, hopes, dreams, frustrations, and shredded nerves, the big day finally came. The inaugural Agatha Christie Swim took place in Paignton, between the pretty beaches of Goodrington and Broadsands. 250 hardy souls swam what seemed like quite a bit more than a mile. The bravest - including the Mayor, Nick Bye - pictured here - did it without wetsuits. Respect. The event wasn't without its hiccups - especially in the water, I seemed to swallow half of Tor Bay - but hey, if we can raise thousands of pounds for the BBC Radio Devon Air Ambulance Appeal, it will have been worth doing.

Stripping and dipping

2010-09-13T17:49:00.012+01:00

As my friend Anna and I were getting changed by the river bank, ready to try out a new pool we'd spotted from the road, we saw a couple coming down the bank on the other side. They settled down opposite us; he was armed with a large camera. We thought nothing of it, got in the water and started to swim. Suddenly out of the corner of my eye, there was a flash of flesh (well, bottom to be precise) and I noticed the woman seemed to have taken some of her clothes off; when I looked again they were all off and a nude photoshoot was in progress. As you can imagine we were terribly British and kept on swimming around as though it was the most normal thing in the world. It was rather lovely actually - all very artistic among the moss and ferns. Wild swimming has never been so exciting.

Mushroom bonanza

2010-09-13T17:35:00.008+01:00

The mushrooms have gone mad. They are sprouting everywhere. On our walk today we found masses of goodies including chanterelles, hedgehogs, millers, ceps and wood blewitts. Of course lots of goodies also means lots of baddies: there were scores of panther caps - v poisonous. We also spotted two death caps, which as the name suggests are, ahem, deadly. To quote the great John Wright, author of the River Cottage Mushroom book (the only field guide which makes me laugh out loud), "A single specimen is quite enough to despatch you into the next world".

Down the Dart

2010-09-12T14:22:00.011+01:00

I was quite anxious about this swim. Four miles down the Dart from Totnes to Stoke Gabriel is a long way. However we were swimming at the top of the tide, going with the flow, and the whole thing was simply glorious. The Dart estuary is magnificent. It flows majestically towards the sea, past marshes, reed beds and green rolling hills. As we neared Stoke Gabriel the river started to metamorphose; the water became more salty, the banks became more rocky and strands of kelp started to brush our faces. Around 30 of us did the swim, which was organised by the lovely Olivia. Thanks Olivia! We ended up at the ideally placed River Shack where we tucked into scrumptious bacon butties and other goodies.

The pools of the past

2010-08-27T14:35:00.014+01:00

Haytor Quarry is pretty close to home, yet I've never swum in the pools there. Although it was a dull day, the Moor was colourful, with great splodges of yellow and purple. The quarry is a little sheltered world, a poignant reminder of times past when granite from here was used in such illustrious buildings as the British Museum and London Bridge. There are three pools, attractively accessorised with lily pads and rushes.

And the band played on

2010-08-25T09:15:00.006+01:00

It was like the final scenes on the Titanic. As the annual Burgh Island Race wound up, the heavens opened and there was a monstrous deluge of epic proportions. The band was playing; they were there to perform the first ever "Symphony on Burgh". They kept on throughout the storm; it was all so terribly British. Despite the grey skies and rain, the sea was actually quite calm, and the swim was an otherwordly experience. As I swam around the back of the island, through rocky channels surrounded by foaming spray, I felt totally alive. We'd been warned that 'Sammy the Seal' was in evidence, but there was no sign of him.

Magical mystery tour

2010-08-17T19:22:00.011+01:00

You feel very honoured when a friend lets you in on a secret. Today we were taken to a special place that my friend had come across by chance. We shall call it the Black Lagoon....and say only that it is somewhere in the darkest South Hams. It was somewhat eerie and seemingly bottomless, or, 'as deep as a cathedral' according to someone who lives nearby. As we swam we occasionally saw columns of bubbles, like silver coins floating up from the deep.

A strange swim

2010-08-15T15:20:00.010+01:00

Today I wanted to find somewhere I'd never swum before, so pored over the map looking for patches of blue. I settled on the River Swincombe, in the centre of the Moor, where I saw something on the map called "Swincombe Intake Works". It was a bleak yomp under overcast skies and spots of rain to find the place, which turned out to be a forlorn-looking man-made dam of what is quite a small stream. Swimming in it I felt like the last surviving person in the whole world. On the way home I stopped off in the woods and found some chanterelles; dare we hope it might be a good year for the 'shrooms?

Underwater sightings

2010-07-28T09:15:00.004+01:00

Maidencombe is a charming small cove north of Torquay, with red sand and cliffs. We went expecting a day of sandcastles, gentle swims and ice creams but it turned out much more exciting than that. There are lots of weird and wonderful rock formations on both sides of the beach, with lots of channels, overhangs and sheltering places for marine life. We saw a starfish, wrasse, prawns and a huge spider crab which glowed day-glo orange among the thick brown kelp. There are also lots of wonderful ledges, perfect for jumping and diving.

Swimming in the wake of the Queen of Crime

2010-07-24T11:21:00.009+01:00

Had a laugh mucking around in silly swimming hats today, to do publicity shots for a charity swim I'm helping to organise. The Agatha Christie Swim, in aid of the Devon Air Ambulance, will take place on September 19th. It follows a gorgeous one mile course between the pretty beaches of Goodrington and Broadsands in Paignton. You swim past intricate little inlets with lovely names - Shell Cove and Crystal Cove to name but two - as well as fascinating geological features including 400 million year old coral fossils. Do please come and join us and support a worthy cause - the Air Ambulance is a vital rescue service which gets no government funding. You can enter here. Photo copyright Neil Devons, Proteus Media

Duckies

2010-07-22T18:28:00.011+01:00

During a lunchbreak swim at Hollicombe, my feathered companions included ducks as well as cormorants and gulls. Afterwards they had a little siesta on the beach. Shame I couldn't do the same.

Delicious Dart

2010-07-19T18:31:00.008+01:00

I'd forgotten how amazing the Dart is....I've been swimming in lots of other places lately and just hadn't been there for a while. Well today I went back to one of my old 'faves' and fell in love all over again. This particular place has two small waterfalls, like natural jacuzzis. I spent lots of time just watching the myriad golden bubbles that foam constantly at the bottom of the cascade. Then I just stuck my face in and shut my eyes; it was like being given a million soft kisses.

Medieval mayhem

2010-07-17T21:16:00.014+01:00

It's that time of year when Ashburton 'goes medieval'. The Ancient Ale Tasting and Bread Weighing ceremony goes back hundreds of years - and this year is the 750th anniversary. It is the solemn duty of the dignitaries of the town to visit all the pubs and check the quality of the beer. A special anniversary message of congratulation from the Queen was read out, before general merry making in the streets, including the sinister Grimspound Morris Men.

Carnival commotion

2010-07-04T10:16:00.010+01:00

I know it's carnival time in Ashburton when my sleep is disturbed by groups of drunks stopping to chat on the bridge outside our house as they stumble their way home. I love it though. The lights, the glitter, the topical references and the man-made fibres. It's a wonderful home-made spectacle.

Bizarre Bazaar

2010-06-21T20:35:00.011+01:00

Ashburton 'went funky' on Saturday, with a market called the Bizarre Bazaar. Jazz/soul floozy Mama Tokus sang outside, trailing her 'Big Bustle' (a cunningly hidden speaker), revving up the atmosphere and pulling in the punters. The town hall, where the market was held, was 'Christo'd' with exotic silk drapes. And inside, a host of goodies was on sale, from vintage lingerie, through to home-grown veg, panama hats and 'pre-loved' kitchenalia. The term "Brighton-on-the Moor" has been tentatively coined, but I don't think Ashburton needs to take its cue from anywhere else.

Perfect Penlee

2010-06-15T20:05:00.008+01:00

Penlee Point, on the Rame Peninsular in Cornwall, just the other side of Plymouth, is full of history, both natural and man-made. Heading down to the rocky coastline we walked over a camomile lawn, relishing its fragrance, and passed bee orchids, purple vetch, speedwell and foxgloves. At Penlee Point itself we found Queen Adelaide's Grotto, an eighteenth century lookout point, and there are apparently various Victorian and Edwardian defences in the area. As we swam from an idyllic sandy cove round through channels to sheltered rocky pools, we were passed by a procession of naval destroyers and frigates going back and forth from Plymouth Sound. There was masses of marine life to see including anenomes, sea squirts and some amazing seaweed called thongweed which looked just like a mermaid's hair.

The Scottish Play

2010-06-06T14:56:00.010+01:00

For weeks excitement has been building in Ashburton about a performance of Macbeth featuring local painter and decorater Chris in the title role, and, among others, Charlie the chimney sweep as the porter. The show was put on in the atmospheric St Lawrence Chapel, and directed by former actress Cathryn Harrison, grand-daughter of Rex. It was intriguing to see people you see every day in the street, transformed into Shakespeare's characters on stage, and showing another side to themselves.

Oxbow expedition

2010-05-27T12:31:00.015+01:00

As we approached the start of our swim in the Tamar, our excitement grew. First, the magnificent sight of the river itself - the Rhine of Devon. Then, as we got down towards the bank, we had to troop through vast reed beds which towered over us as we walked. It felt like being in the Cambodian jungle. When we finally got into the water, after our very hot trek, it was bliss. We were swimming an Oxbow, which somehow felt like a very special thing to do. There's something about an oxbow: a sort of indulgent meandering off course into a beautiful bulge; its lazily serpentine shape, and a pleasing circularity about the way you end up practically where you started.

Frolicking around the fringes

2010-05-16T17:50:00.014+01:00

When we arrived at Bigbury-on-sea it felt like October. The place was shrouded in mist and everything was awash with grey. We continued with our swimming plans, and lo and behold it brightened up and we explored around the edge of the island, meandering through channels and diving through great fronds of kelp. We were approached by the lifeguards in their boat, who wanted to know if we were going to swim around the island. This feat has now become all too 'de rigeur'.

Stating the bleedin' obvious

2010-05-15T20:15:00.014+01:00

You can never be too careful, especially by the sea where there are tides to worry about. At Castle Cove in Dartmouth the council isn't taking any chances with people's safety. Despite the danger of the incoming tide I plunged in and had a body-tingling swim - my first in the sea without a wetsuit this year. It was indeed cold but then I realised I was getting used to it, and swam for longer than I expected.

Totnes Groove

2010-05-15T20:10:00.007+01:00

Saw a rather groovy band busking while out shopping in Totnes today. They are called "Not Now Bernard". I spent a lot of time dredging the recesses of my brain trying to get the reference. Eventually I remembered the the character Bernard in Four Weddings and A Funeral: a hapless and hopeless but rather charming man. In fact, Aqua Marina (see comments) tells me this is the name of a children's book about a little boy who is ignored by his parents. Thanks Aqua!

Church as home

2010-05-09T20:56:00.007+01:00

Huccaby is an idyllic hamlet in the middle of Dartmoor near Dartmeet. It has a tiny, beautiful 19th century chapel dedicated to St Raphael. A group of dedicated fundraisers have recently got together and raised enough money for a woodburning stove to keep worshippers warm. It is a very special place, and the fireplace makes it feel like something more than a church.

Messing about in the river

2010-05-03T16:24:00.009+01:00

At Bantham the tide was going out and the river was like a slippery snake, a constant ripple of movement towards the sea. We slid in and were pulled along by the current, enjoying a duck-eye view from the surface, looking out and up at the beach and seascape around. The world whirled by as we travelled along, clasped by the water. When we reached the open sea we got out, walked back to the start and did the whole thing again.