Another trip to the Hindu Temples

Approaching the first cave (photo Aaron Kitts) 

I never tire of swimming at the Hindu Temples in Torquay.  They are a set of interlinking caves in the sandstone cliffs at Livermead; the writer Charles Kingsley described them thus:  "the fantastic rocks of Livermead, scooped by the waves into a labyrinth of double and triple caves, like Hindu Temples..." They are an extraordinary natural feature. On Saturday morning we arrived to find the sea calm and a stunning petrol blue.  The dark entrances of the caves beckoned us in and rock doves cooed above, roosting in the crevices, as we swam into the gurgling depths of the first cave.   The water swirled around in the second cave and I got a bruised knee, but I never mind a few bruises after a swim like that.

Stuart and Olivia 

Mark inside the caves

Sparkling swimming

It was the first day of November and the red rocks  of Livermead were soaked in sun as we got changed on the ledges.   Aquatic Ape was down from London with Mrs Ape, as well as Fiona,  so we were keen to show them the beauties of Torbay.  First stop, the caves at Livermead, aka the Hindu Temples, which, as Jackie said, never disappoint.  The sea was a brilliant turquoise as we plunged in off the rocks and swam towards the alluring arches in the cliff.  Then were were into the first cave, where we marvelled at the intense blue glow of the water as the light bounced in and off the cave walls.   In one recess the water gurgled particularly menacingly.   After an exploration through the rest of the caves, watched by the resident pigeons, we went for lunch at the Meadfoot Cafe, before heading over to Anstey's Cove where the water was flat, beautiful and green, and where we had another swim. 

Kaleidoscope in the caves

The sun was shining in Torquay and we were meeting for a high tide swim through the sea caves at Livermead.  I have never before seen quite such vibrant colours in there.  The oranges and yellows of the walls, contrasted with the turquoise of the water, were stunning.  It was a particularly happy swim.  Lots of lovely people, including two children, having fun swimming through the different 'rooms' and marvelling at the exotic beauty of the sandstone shapes. And it was all topped off with a feast of hot cross buns, eaten in one of the caves, looking out of the 'window'.  Well it was Good Friday  - it would be rude not to.  Swimming back through one of the caves, the light effects were positively pyschedelic; the water seemed to glow.

 

. 

The call of the caves

The spontaneous swims are usually the best.  This morning a friend posted a picture of the sea in Torquay looking blue,  sparkling and flat, and I thought, right, I'm going over.  (Fortunately I didn't have anything so tedious as work to be getting on with).   Due to the miracles of social media a plan was made with friends within the hour. The conditions were perfect to swim at the sea caves at Livermead - christened the "Hindu Temples" by author Charles Kingsley, who was bowled over by their exotic shapes.  As we slipped into the petrol-blue water, bathed in autumnal sunlight, it was hard to believe the worst storm in 20 years had just passed through.  Inside the first set of caves the water rumbled like a hungry monster but the shafts of sunlight lightened the atmosphere.  In the second set, Gary and Claire found a whirlpool which they sat in, under the 'windows' above - just like being in the Flintstones' house.  A totally magical experience, made all the extraordinary by the fact that the caves are just yards from the main road between Torquay and Paignton; you might as well be in Wonderland.

The Hindu Temples

 There is a set of spectacular sea caves in Torquay which the writer Charles Kingsley (author of the Water Babies) described as 'a labyrinth of double and triple caves, like Hindu Temples".  In Victorian times, as this etching shows, they were quite well known, but now it seems they are largely forgotten, even though they're just minutes from the main road. We set off in rather murky, unattractive seas, and there was quite a swell.  The water rushed in and out of the caves, crashing against the back walls and creating rough swirls and eddies.  It was very dramatic but it made it difficult to explore safely although some brave souls ventured in, where they were whirled around before being unceremoniously spat out. As the sun started to set behind the headland, and the sea roared inside the caves, it felt like an amazing place to be. Thanks to Allan and Pauline/James for the pictures.